RC8B3.1 Tuning Guide

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• Table of Contents

  Basics

  Front Suspension

  Rear Suspension

  Shocks

  Differential Fluid

  Clutch and Gearing

Basics

• Online Resources 

  Online	Name
  Parts	Parts and Accessories
  Manual	Instruction Manual (22+ MB PDF)
  Setup	Standard Kit Setup (PDF)
  Setups	Setup Sheets by racers (PDF)
  Photos	Vehicle Photos

• RC8B3.1 Kit Features 
  Front suspension features pillow ball uprights (steering blocks) for increased adjustability and improved durability
  
  Gearboxes feature a 3.38:1 internal gear ratio with fast-access differentials for quick removal, tuning and maintenance
  
  Center universal drive shafts for efficient drivetrain power delivery and ease of maintenance
  
  Braking system features bonded pads and machined steel rotors for maximum braking force and reduced fade
  
  7075-T6 aluminum 16mm Big Bore threaded shocks with TiN coated 3.5mm shafts, precision springs, and emulsion-style bleeder cap for better bump absorption
  
  7075-T6 aluminum shock towers front and rear feature finely tuned shock mounting and upper arm positions
  
  Refined suspension geometry with lower hinge pin (arm mount) inserts for quick and easy roll center adjustments
  
  Lightweight, one-piece wing mounts feature height and forward positioning adjustment for more precise handling
  
  Graphite radio tray with sealed receiver box keeps dirt and debris from receiver
  
  Large-capacity fuel tank with floating clunk filter and optimized internal baffles keep fuel flowing in the most extreme conditions
  
  Pro-Line™ RC8B3.1 clear body and Team Associated molded wing included top
• Parts Needed 
  top

  Parts Needed

  Online	Item
  #302	Transmitter batteries (#302 recommended)
  Batteries	4.8-7.4V receiver battery pack, such as: • LiPo - flat style (#304, 315) • LiFe - flat style (#305) • NiMH - flat style (#613)
  	.21 rear exhaust engine
  	Muffler, joining pack, or manifold spring
  	2-channel radio/transmitter set with switch -- FM/PCM/2.4GHz recommended
  	1:8 scale buggy tires

  Fluids Needed

  Online	Item
  	Model Car Fuel (30% nitro recommended)
  	Polycarbonate specific spray paint or polycarbonate specific bottled paint and airbrush
  #1597	CA (Cyanoacrylic) glue
  #1105	Green Slime shock lube (#1105)
  Fluids	Silicone Shock Fluid
  Fluids	Silicone Diff Fluid

  Tools Needed

  Online	Item
  1738	Glow igniter
  1747	Fuel bottle
  1751	Starter box
  1675	Shock Shaft Pliers
  1449	Ride Height Gauge
  1737	Body Scissors
  1114	FT Turnbuckle Wrench
  1655	FT Hex Wrenches
  1506	FT 5.0mm Hex Drive
  Tools	FT Nut Drivers (AE #1663-1668)
  	Needle nose pliers
  	Hobby knife
  	Reamer/hole punch
  	Soldering Iron
  	Wire Cutters
  	Calipers or Precision Ruler

• Abbreviations and Terms Used 

  You'll see the following abbreviations or terms used in the manual.

  Term	Name
  AE	Associated Electrics, Inc., Team Associated's legal name
  BHCS	Button Head Cap Screw
  CA	Cyanoacrylate glue, otherwise known as super glue (in parts list)
  cSt	Centistokes, a measure of fluid viscosity (in parts list)
  CVA	Constant Velocity Axle
  Diff	Differential
  FHCS	Flat Head Cap Screw
  FT	Factory Team
  HD	Heavy Duty (in parts list)
  HRC	High Roll Center arm mounts
  IFMAR	International Federation of Model Auto Racing, race sanction organization
  LiFe	Lithium Iron Phosphate, battery type
  LiPo	Lithium Polymer, battery type
  NiMH	Nickel-Metal Hydride, battery type
  ROAR	Remotely Operated Auto Racing, race sanction organization (in parts list)
  RX	Receiver (in parts list)
  SHCS	Socket Head Cap Screw
  TB Ball	Turnbuckle Ball (in parts list)
  TiN	Titanium Nitride, a shock shaft coating
  TX	Transmitter (in parts list)
  Uprights	Steering Block or Rear Hub
  V2	version 2
  wt	weight, such as 30wt for shock fluid viscosity

• Quick Start after assembly 

  Electrical

  1. Charge receiver battery and install in car.
  2. Charge starter box battery.
  3. Read radio transmitter manual thoroughly.
  4. Insert batteries into radio transmitter.
  5. Turn on the transmitter first, then either plug in receiver pack, Or turn on power switch for Buggy.
  6. Check the operation of the radio. Turn the steering wheel left and right -- ensure left is left and right is right, and that wheels are facing straight when not turning wheel on the transmitter. Pull the trigger and the carburetor should open; push the trigger and the brakes should engage and not over extending themselves during the motion. If so, check your EPA adjustment for Throttle (refer to transmitter manual).
  7. Turn transmitter off.
  8. Fully charge your glow igniter.
  9. If using a starter box, be sure the engine flywheel is aligned with the starter wheel when buggy is placed onto the starter box. If not, adjust positioning posts on starter box for proper alignment.

  Air Filter Elements

  1. Put elements into plastic bag and lightly add air filter oil.
  2. Massage elements to absorb oil until they are lightly but evenly coated.
  3. Install on car.

  Fuel Tank

  1. Check engine specs for recommended nitro content of fuel.
  2. Lift fuel tank lid and add fuel with fuel bottle.

  Engine

  1. Read your engine manual thoroughly and get the engine ready, such as determining which type and temperature of glow plug to use
  2. Familiarize yourself with the fuel mixture settings and break-in procedures.

  Starting the Car

  1. Plug in the receiver battery, or turn on power switch.
  2. Turn on the transmitter.
  3. Insert the glow plug igniter over the glow plug in the engine head.
  4. Bump the flywheel against the starter box's wheel. Once engine starts, let run for up to 30 seconds to warm up a bit.
  5. Remove the glow plug igniter.
  6. Carefully follow all engine break-in steps in your manual when starting for the first time. Adjust fuel mixture settings according to the manual.

  Stopping the Car

  1. Gently pinch the fuel line with pliers until it stops, careful not to damage fuel line.
  2. Unplug the receiver battery, or turn of power switch.
  3. Turn off the transmitter.

  top
• Common Beginner Mistakes on the Track 

  On the track

  • Gearing too high and going too fast for their skill level.
  • Not slowing down enough; poor throttle control.
  • Not taking the curves right; braking late or going in too fast.
  • Not practicing enough, especially areas of the track that give the most trouble.
  • Thinking that pro equipment will make up for practice.
  • Not remembering that having fun is key.
  • Too nervous.

  With others

  • Poor track etiquette when losing. Yelling at the turn marshall.
  • Applying throttle when the turn marshall handles your car.
  • Not asking for help, not asking questions, or not appreciative of help given.
  • Having too little patience.

  On the bench

  • Not learning how to set up the car for the track and driving style.
  • Finding it hard to fix their vehicle.
  • Not learning proper engine tuning.
  • Forgetting to charge batteries or forgetting to have fresh batteries.
  • Wiring the electronics wrong.
  • Not testing radio system for working order.
  • Not knowing your factory carb settings.
  • Not tightening screws and applying threadlock to metal-to-metal screws. top
• How to Create the Best Setup 

  The following is how expert racers dial their cars to the track. Tuning changes combined with practice, practice, and more practice makes a winner. Only make changes that you can justify -- but experimentation is good, too!

  Print out the online setup sheet several times. Fill it out according to the standard setup (also online) and date it. Change your car if necessary so it matches this standard setup. Fill out the Track Conditions section of the setup to describe your racing conditions. Mark the page as "Standard Setup.

  Before you change any of your settings, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. None of your setup changes will work if you cannot stay on the track. Your goal at this point, as a novice, is to get consistent lap times, not to go fast. Your lap times may be inconsistent because of poor control. So get a lap counter and have a friend time your laps until they are consistent. Keep notes of your lap times so you can check your progress.

  After your lap times are consistent, focus on your tire type. What are the winning racers using? Change your tires if necessary, mark the change on your setup sheet, and practice. Are your lap times the same, better or worse? If your lap times are better, then you have either become a better driver or your new tires have made a difference. Practice the same length of time as your real race heat. If it's five minutes, practice for five-minutes.

  Now you can start making the tuning changes. Make changes one at a time, checking your lap times each time before you make another change. Read the guide carefully and thoroughly to make sure your adjustments are dealing with real issues that affect your car. Mark each change on your setup sheet. Don't worry if you can't tell any difference with a change; you'll develop more sensitivity to changes when you are a better driver. When you have made real progress, you may want to make up a new setup sheet with those changes. Put it in a safe place; it can be used again later if you race on a track with similar conditions.

  top
• Maintenance Checklist 

  Follow these steps at the pit table before racing to keep your car in the best shape possible.

  Suspension arms, front and rear

  • Make sure arms move smoothly; remove dirt build-up.
  • Check for worn or damaged parts, i.e., arms and hinge pins.
  • Check the steering system, that bellcranks and steering parts move freely.
  • Clean your tires of gunk.

  Ball cups

  • Check for cracks to see if they need replacing.
  • Clear the ballstuds of debris.

  Batteries

  • Check that battery is fully charged, and connections and mounting are secure.
  • Check battery wiring and connections.

  Body

  • Check body for cracks and damage; repair if possible.
  • Check that body clips hold tightly.
  • Check that body does not touch tires or ground throughout suspension travel.

  Brake parts

  • Check for worn brake pads or disc.
  • Remove any dirt or debris from braking system.
  • Check that brakes and throttle linkages are clean and properly adjusted.

  Bushings and bearings

  • Remove, clean and lube using a lightweight oil.
  • Replace worn or damaged bushings or bearings as needed.

  Receiver and servos

  • Check the receiver antenna for any damage (a damaged antenna can affect range).
  • Check that the steering servo is working left to right.
  • Check that the throttle servo is applying full throttle and brake action.
  • Check that all leads to receiver are plugged in completely, and no damage has occurred to wires (channel 1 for steering, channel 2 for throttle).

  Shocks

  • Check that shock shafts compress and rebound freely.
  • Check for oil residue on shaft or suspension components; if found, shock may need to be refilled with fluid or rebuilt by replacing seals and fluid.
  • Check that spring cups are in place and spring is properly centered.

  Screws

  • Check that screws have not backed out. Apply threadlock where necessary.

  Transmitter

  • Be sure that your transmitter batteries have plenty of power; replace or recharge if needed.
  • Check that the steering wheel turns left and right and has good spring tension
  • Check that the throttle trigger moves freely forward and back.
  • Check that the battery is secure and battery cover is in place.

  CVAs

  • Check for binding while turning wheel; check that the CV coupler moves freely as the wheel is turning.
  • Clean and lube frequently.
  • Replace or rebuild coupler assembly as needed.
  • Check CV bone pin for wear or damage.

  Differentials

  • Replace parts as needed.
  • Check gear differential outdrives for wobbling, wear and leaks.
  • If leaking, replace seals and gaskets.
  • Install new outdrives if worn.
  • Replace silicone diff fluid. top
• How to print out this tuning guide 
  You may want to print out this entire guide and put it in a binder. Read the following before you hit the Print button.
  
  The print function will only print what is being displayed on the page. It won't print the pictures in the sections that are closed. To make sure all the pictures appear, open each section and scroll through. This will pull the pictures from the server so the print functionality will acknowledge them. (The Google Chrome browser will give the most information in the printout.)
  
  Once the selected sections are open and scrolled through, you can print.

Front Suspension

• Ride Height

  Ride Height

  The ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis (with the vehicle fully equipped, full tank, body on). You can measure the ride height with the #1449 FT Ride Height Gauge.
  
  Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 6 to 8 inches off the bench and dropping it. After the suspension settles into place, adjust threaded shock collars up or down so the front CVAs are parallel to the ground. This is known as "bones level."
  
  You should always check the ride height after making all of your other adjustments, just before you are ready to race.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 25mm.

  Adjustment Options:

  • See Rake, following.

  Rake

  Rake is the incline angle of the vehicle when looked at from the side. Positive rake is the front end (ride height of chassis) lower to the ground than the rear (vehicle is angled down towards the front). Negative rake is the front end higher than the rear.
  
  The effect of rake angle has more of an impact on cars with greater aero features. Rake is indicated on the setup sheet by the entries in the ride height for front and rear.

  Default:

  • Positive.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Positive rake angle: increased aerodynamic effect and weight distribution to front end. Reduces high speed understeer (or increases high speed oversteer).
  • Negative rake angle: increased aerodynamic effect and weight distribution to rear end. Reduces high speed oversteer (or increases high speed understeer).

  Online	Name
  	#1449 FT Off Road Ride Height Gauge

• Anti-roll Bar
  
  Arrows show the "gap."
  
  Anti-roll bars are used to stabilize a vehicle from excessive chassis roll (such as when a buggy leans through the turns by centrifugal force).
  
  On a high-traction surface, a vehicle not using anti-roll bars will tend to have a lot of chassis roll, which results in the vehicle being less responsive.
  
  Adding anti-roll bars (or making them thicker if you already use them) will help minimize the chassis roll, making the vehicle more responsive in cornering, and at the same time making it more stable.
  
  Tuning the "gap" (see illustration above): We can fine-tune the bar by changing how much the bar extends from the collar. The farther it extends from the collar, the stiffer you make it. Going flush will be the softest the bar can be.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Size: 2.3mm
  • Gap: 2.3mm

  Adjustment Options:

  • Size: Softer or thinner bars: for low- and medium-traction tracks.
  • Size: Stiffer or thicker bars: for high-traction tracks.
  

  Online	Name
  	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
  	#81130 RC8B3 FT Front Anti-roll Bars, 2.3-2.5mm
  	#81131 RC8B3 FT Front Anti-roll Bars, 2.6-2.8mm
  	#81150 RC8B3 Anti-roll Bar Drop Link/Collet

• Ackermann
  
  Ackermann is a term describing the effect of the inside front wheel turning tighter than the outside front wheel. More Ackermann means the inside wheel is turning in a tighter arc.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 25mm

  Adjustment Options:

  • #1 position: Ackermann forward will be faster initially but smoother on exit.
  • #5 position: Ackermann back will be slower initially but harsher exiting the corner on power.
  • #3 position: the best of both worlds.
  
  The animation shows the angle of Ackermann changing as successive holes are used:
  
  

  Online	Name
  	#81089 RC8B3 Steering Rack

• Driveshafts
  
  The setup sheet indicates 2 options for driveshafts: CVAs and Universals.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • CVAs used.

  Adjustment Options:

  • CVAs: creates bind, which helps support the car in roll and forward traction.
  • Universals: tend to be better on a bumpy track.

  Online	Name
  	#81019 RC8B3 Universals, 93.5mm
  	#81326 RC8B3 CVA Axle, steel
  	#81328 Factory Team RC8B3 CVA Rebuild Kit
  	#81394 RC8B3.1 CVA Driveshafts, 94 mm
  	#81395 RC8B3.1 CVA Driveshaft Set, 94 mm

• Chassis Braces
  
  You have 2 options for the chassis brace, short or long.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  
  • Long brace.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Use the long brace for high-grip tracks like carpet and blue groove. This will give less flex, and therefore will be more responsive.
  • Use the short brace for looser tracks. This will give more flex.

  Online	Name
  	#81301 RC8B3 Chassis Braces, short (front and rear)
  	#81032 RC8B3 Chassis Braces, long (front and rear)

• Wheel Hex
  
  The wheel hexes widen the width (or track) of the vehicle. You have 2 options: +1mm and +2mm. Be careful not to widen the width beyond technical inspection rules.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  
  • +1.

  Adjustment Options:

  • +1: standard setting.
  • +2: use on a high-traction track to tame the steering.

  Online	Name
  	#81079 RC8B3 Wheel Hexes, +1mm wide
  	#81080 RC8B3 Wheel Hexes, +2mm wide
  	#89096 Wheel Hex Pins

• Caster Clips
  
  Caster describes the imaginary vertical angle of the pillow balls top-to-bottom, the top pillow ball positioned toward the rear of the vehicle. We can change this caster angle.
  
  Caster is changed by moving the caster clips (shims) on either side of the upper front arm. This shifts the upper arm relative to the lower arm, achieving caster change. 3 shim thicknesses are available: 0.9mm, 1.0mm, 2.0mm.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 0.9mm (at rear of upper front arm)

  Adjustment Options:

  • Less caster: less steering entering and exiting corners.
  • More caster: more steering entering and exiting corners.

  Online	Name
  	#81055 RC8B3 Front Upper Arms

• Upper Ball Shim (unfinished)
  
  Pillow ball shims come in three sizes: 0.35mm, 0.7mm, 1.4mm.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  
  • 0.7mm.

  Adjustment Options:

  • not available
  • not available
  

  Online	Name
  	#81072 RC8B3 Pillow Ball Shims

• Lower Ball Shim (unfinished)
  
  Pillow ball shims come in three sizes: 0.35mm, 0.7mm, 1.4mm.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 0.7mm.

  Adjustment Options:

  • not available
  • not available
  

  Online	Name
  	#81072 RC8B3 Pillow Ball Shims

• Pillow Ball Type, top and bottom
  
  The pillow balls come in 2 materials, steel and aluminum.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Steel.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Aluminum: for weight savings.
  • Steel: for longer wear. Default for top and bottom.

  Online	Name
  	#81067 RC8B3 Pillow Balls, steel
  	#81068 Factory Team Aluminum Pillow Balls

• Bump Steer Spacer
  
  Bump Steer takes its name from the fact that when the car goes over "bumps," it changes the "steering." Bump steer is the undesireable effect of extra toe-in or toe-out as your car goes over randomly spaced hilly bumps closely spaced in an area ("moguls" in race slang), making your steering unpredictable. Your car then bounces back and forth instead of going straight through the bumps.
  
  We alleviate this effect with a spacer. It goes on the steering block arm where the arrow indicates in the illustration above.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • No spacer.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Fewer spacers: bumpsteer in; less steering; more stability.
  • More spacers: bumpsteer out; more aggressive steering; less stable.

  Online	Name
  	#4187 Nylon Spacers, 1/32 in (.030 in)

• Shock Mounting, tower and arm
  
  We can change the angle of the shocks from the shock tower to the front lower arm. There are 5 positions on the tower and 2 on the arm.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Shock tower: hole 1 (inner).
  • Front lower arm: hole B (outer).

  Options, front tower:

  • Outer holes: less steering entering corners; more front end lift off jumps; stiffer.
  • Inner holes: increases initial steering entering corners; less lift off jumps; softer.

  Options, front lower arm:

  • Outer hole: softer; less stable.
  • Inner hole: stiffer; more stable.

  More tips:

  • With the shocks leaned in: The damping effect is softer but supports steering more during cornering. This generally results in more lateral grip.
  • With the shock stood up: The damping effect is harder but supports steering more in bumps and when jumping. This generally results in a more responsive car and more stability exiting corners.
• Upper Arm Mount to Tower (unfinished)
  
  By changing arm mount inserts, you can change the position of the upper arm mount relative to the front tower.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Tower: 1.
  • Upper Arm Mount: 8.

  Adjustment Options: • not available
  • not available

  Online	Name
  	#81050 RC8B3 Arm Mount Insert Set, updated

• Arm Mounts A and B
  
  The various arm mount inserts have holes that can be fixed in 9 different positions in the arm mounts. By changing the inserts in the front arm mount pairs, the lower front arm inner hinge pins are adjusted.
  
  The RC8B3.1 has improved front Arm Mounts A and B, HRC. The new RC8B3 arm mounts with High Roll Center offer increased ground clearance for greater durability, since the pivots now sit 1mm higher off the ground. Additionally, they allow the racer to run a higher roll center for increased stability on faster, high-grip tracks. Both #81291 Arm Mount A and #81292 Arm Mount B are narrower for added side clearance and durability. These mounts are made of high quality 7075-T6 aluminum.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Arm mount A, HRC: center hole insert.
  • Arm mount B, HRC: center hole insert.

  Adjustment Options:

  Vertical positioning affects pro-dive and anti-dive.
  • Anti-dive is the front arm angle when the inserts position the rear of the arm higher than the front. A steeper angle results in: adding anti-dive; increases corner entry steering; decreases caster at the wheel; reduces weight transfer to the front on deceleration entering corners.
  • Pro-dive is the front arm angle when the arm mount inserts position the front of the arm higher than the rear. Results in: Less weight transfer to the front end when off power, and less aggressive steering.

  Online	Name
  	#81046 RC8B3 Arm Mount B
  	#81291 RC8B3 Arm Mount A, HRC
  	#81292 RC8B3 Arm Mount B, HRC
  	#81050 RC8B3 Arm Mount Insert Set, updated

• Wheelbase Shim
  
  Moving the wheelbase shim to either side of the lower front arm hinge pin will move the arms forward or back. This adjusts the wheelbase, the distance between axles on the same side of the car. For instance, putting the shim at the front of the hinge pin will push the arm closer to the rear arm, shortening the wheelbase.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 1mm shim inserted at rear of the hinge pin (longer wheelbase).

  Adjustment Options:

  • 1mm shim at rear: longer wheelbase; more weight transfer to front.
  • 1mm shim at front: shorter wheelbase; less weight transfer to front; quicker steering.

  Online	Name
  	#81054 RC8B3 Front Arms (with two shims)

Rear Suspension

• Ride Height

  Ride Height

  The ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis (with the vehicle fully equipped, full tank, body on). You can measure the ride height with the #1449 FT Ride Height Gauge.
  
  Check the ride height by lifting the entire car about 6 to 8 inches off the bench and dropping it. After the suspension settles into place, adjust threaded shock collars up or down so the rear CVAs are parallel to the ground. This is known as "bones level."
  
  You should always check the ride height after making all of your other adjustments, just before you are ready to race.

  Default:

  • 27mm.

  Adjustment Options:

  • More ride height: more overall weight transfer. Better for low traction conditions because more weight transfer allows the car to generate more grip.
  • Less ride height: less overall weight transfer. Better for high traction conditions because it provides more stability and can prevent traction rolling.
  • Also see Rake, following.

  Rake

  Rake is the incline angle of the vehicle when looked at from the side. Positive rake is the front end (ride height of chassis) lower to the ground than the rear (vehicle is angled down towards the front). Negative rake is the front end higher than the rear.
  
  The effect of rake angle has more of an impact on cars with greater aero features. Rake is indicated on the setup sheet by the entries in the ride height for front and rear.

  Default:

  • Positive.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Positive rake angle: increased aerodynamic effect and weight distribution to front end. Reduces high speed understeer (or increases high speed oversteer).
  • Negative rake angle: increased aerodynamic effect and weight distribution to rear end. Reduces high speed oversteer (or increases high speed understeer).

  Online	Name
  	#1449 FT Off Road Ride Height Gauge

• Anti-roll Bar
  
  Arrows show the "gap."
  
  Anti-roll bars are used to stabilize a vehicle from excessive chassis roll (such as when a buggy leans through the turns by centrifugal force).
  
  On a high-traction surface, a vehicle not using anti-roll bars will tend to have a lot of chassis roll, which results in the vehicle being less responsive.
  
  Adding anti-roll bars (or making them thicker if you already use them) will help minimize the chassis roll, making the vehicle more responsive in cornering, and at the same time making it more stable.
  
  Tuning the "gap" (see illustration above): We can fine-tune the bar by changing how much the bar extends from the collar. The farther it extends from the collar, the stiffer you make it. Going flush will be the softest the bar can be.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Size: 2.7mm
  • Gap: 0mm

  Adjustment Options:

  • Size: Softer or thinner bars: for low- and medium-traction tracks.
  • Size: Stiffer or thicker bars: for high-traction tracks.

  Online	Name
  	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
  	#81140 RC8B3 FT Rear Anti-roll Bars, 2.5-2.7mm
  	#81141 RC8B3 FT Rear Anti-roll Bars, 2.8-3.0mm
  	#81150 RC8B3 Anti-roll Bar Drop Link/Collet

• Driveshafts
  
  The setup sheet indicates 2 options for driveshafts: CVAs and Universals.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • CVAs.

  Adjustment Options:

  • CVAs: creates bind, which helps support the car in roll and forward traction.
  • Universals: tend to be better on a bumpy track.

  Notes:

  • CVAs require 5x21x4mm inner bearing #91566.
  • Universals require 8x16x5mm inner bearing #91565.

  Online	Name
  	#81019 RC8B3 Universals, 93.5mm
  	#81328 Factory Team RC8B3 CVA Rebuild Kit
  	#81394 RC8B3.1 CVA Driveshafts, 94 mm
  	#91565 FT Bearings, 8x16x5 mm, flanged (for Universals)
  	#91566 FT Bearings, 15x21x4 mm (for CVAs)

• Chassis Braces
  
  You have 2 options for the chassis brace, short or long.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Long brace.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Use the long brace for high-grip tracks like carpet and blue groove. This will give less flex, and therefore will be more responsive.
  • Use the short brace for looser tracks. This will give more flex.

  Online	Name
  	#81301 RC8B3 Chassis Braces, short (front and rear)
  	#81032 RC8B3 Chassis Braces, long (front and rear)

• Wheel Hex
  
  The wheel hexes widen the width (or "track") of the vehicle. You have 2 options: +1mm and +2mm. Be careful not to widen the width beyond technical inspection rules.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • +1.

  Adjustment Options:

  • +1: standard setting.
  • +2: If you need more stability in high-grip conditions, try the +2 hex. You will lose some grip.

  Online	Name
  	#81079 RC8B3 Wheel Hexes, +1mm wide
  	#81080 RC8B3 Wheel Hexes, +2mm wide
  	#89096 Wheel Hex Pins

• Wheelbase Shim
  
  Moving the arm shim to either side of the rear suspension arm will adjust the overall position of the arm in the suspension blocks. This affects the wheelbase, CVA angle, and weight bias of the car.
  
  Racers populate the setup sheet with "0F/1R" or "1F/0R" to indicate the shim position quantity in front or rear.

  Shim Location, Arm rear, 0F/1R

  
  (moves rear arm forward): • Increases on-power traction ("on-power" means when accelerating).
  • Increase corner-entry steering (steering into the corner).
  • Decreases corner-exit steering.
  • Shifts overall weight bias rearward.
  • Good on tracks with tight corners or technical sections.

  Shim Location, Arm front, 0F/1R

  
  (moves rear arm back): • Increases overall stability.
  • Increases corner-exit steering.
  • Decreases corner-entry steering.
  • Shifts overall weight bias forward.
  • Good on fast, flowing tracks with speed high corners.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Arm rear (0F/1R).

  Adjustment Options:

  • Shim in front of arm -- 1F/0R.
  • Shim behind arm -- 0F/1R.

  Online	Name
  	#81058 RC8B3 Rear Arms (with two shims)

• Arm Mounts C and D (unfinished)

  Online	Name
  	#81047 RC8B3 Arm Mount C
  	#81048 RC8B3 Arm Mount D
  	#81293 RC8B3 Arm Mount C, HRC
  	#81294 RC8B3 Arm Mount D, HRC
  	#81050 RC8B3 Arm Mount Insert Set, updated

• Shock Mounting, tower and arm (unfinished)
  
  We can change the angle of the shocks from the shock tower to the rear arm. There are 5 positions on the tower and 2 on the arm.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Shock tower: hole 3 (middle hole).
  • Rear arm: hole B (outer).

  Options, rear tower:

  • Outer holes: less side bite (less cornering traction); more lift off jumps; stiffer.
  • Inner holes: more stability in entry and cornering traction; less lift off jumps; better in bumps; softer.

  Options, rear arm:

  • Outer hole: stiffer; less responsive; more locked in.
  • Inner hole: softer; good for bumps and jumps.
• Rear Hub to Tower (Camber Link) (unfinished)
  
  Lengthening or shortening the camber link turnbuckles can affect traction, stability, and handling. The camber link will affect how much the camber changes during suspension travel. The longer the link, the less camber change and the more traction. The shorter the link, the more camber change and the less traction.
  
  Changing camber link length changes the tire patch, the amount of tire that touches the ground throughout shock travel. When you have the maximum tire patch set for maximum traction, you may want to keep it there as much as possible, so you choose a longer camber link length. The standard setting results in a long link.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Tower: hole 2.
  • Hub: hole B (outer)

  Adjustment Options:

  • Shorter link: better for medium-grip loose tracks; results in stiffer rear suspension; accelerates better; gives more turn-in steering; gives less mid-to-exit corner steering; decreases traction; more side-to-side stability.
  • Longer link: standard for high-grip tracks; gives softer rear suspension (more chassis roll); gives less corner-entry steering; more exit-corner steering; more traction; less side-to-side stability.

Shocks

• Pistons (unfinished)
  
  The shock piston has holes through which the fluid flows as the piston travels up and down in the shock body. Pistons along with shock fluid help determine shock damping.
  
  A shock's damping is a measure of the resistance of the shock as it is compressed. Changing the piston hole size changes the damping of the shock. Keeping the same fluid, pistons with smaller holes provide more damping, also known as "pack," while pistons with larger holes provide less damping, or less pack.
  
  When changing to the next smaller hole, it will have the feel of incrementally increasing the shock fluid weight.

  Understanding shock names: "16mm Piston, 6x1.3, flat [or tapered]"

  • 16mm = inside diameter of the shock body.
  • 6 = number of holes in the shock piston.
  • 1.3 = diameter of holes in mm.
  • Flat = describes the surface of the piston.
  • Tapered = piston gradually thickens toward the center hole on one side of the piston.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Front: 8x1.2 taper.
  • Rear: 8x1.2 taper.

  Options

  [UNCONFIRMED]: • 6x1.3, flat: less shock damping; for small bumps.
  • 8x1.2 tapered: more damping than previous piston; improves jump lifts and landings; for smoother tracks; increases responsiveness.
  • 6x1.3, tapered: more damping than previous piston.

  Online	Name
  	#81200 RC8B3 Shock Pistons

• Shock Fluid
  
  Shock fluids come in a variety of viscosities, or weights, which measure the thickness of the fluid. Fluid viscosity is measured in CentiStokes, abbreviated cSt. Shock fluids influence the rate of rebound after compression of the shock, such as after a landing or going over bumpy sections.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Front: 37.5wt (463 cSt).
  • Rear: 32.5wt (388 cSt).

  Adjustment Options:

  • Thinner fluid = softer damping.
  Front: Increases off-power steering response.
  Rear: Increases rear end traction
  • Thicker fluid = harder damping.
  Front: Increases corner exit understeer.
  Rear: Decreases rear end traction.

  Online	Name (in order of viscosity)
  	#5420 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 10wt (100 cSt)
  	#5427 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 15wt (150 cSt)
  	#5421 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 20wt (200 cSt)
  	#5424 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 22.5wt (238 cSt)
  	#5428 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 25wt (275 cSt)
  	#5426 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 27.5wt (313 cSt)
  	#5422 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 30wt (350 cSt)
  	#5432 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 32.5wt (388 cSt)
  	#5429 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 35wt (425 cSt)
  	#5433 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 37.5wt (463 cSt)
  	#5423 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 40wt (500 cSt)
  	#5434 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 42.5wt (538 cSt)
  	#5430 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 45wt (575 cSt)
  	#5438 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 47.5wt (613 cSt)
  	#5435 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 50wt (640 cSt)
  	#5431 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 55wt (725 cSt)
  	#5436 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 60wt (800 cSt)
  	#5437 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 70wt (900 cSt)
  	#5425 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 80wt (1000 cSt)

• Shock Springs
  
  Shock springs influence overall weight transfer and the rate at which the shock rebounds after compression. Springs can affect cornering, jumping, and the overall feeling of the car. There are several spring rates available to moderate these factors.

  Understanding spring names: "V2, blue, 5.5 lb/in, L70, 8.75T, 1.6D"

  • V2 = version 2 springs with a 20mm I.D.
  • blue = color-coded heat shrink tubing to identify the spring. Note that the same color will reference front and rear springs, but can represent different rates.
  • L70 = length of spring. L70 is for front; L86 is for rear.
  • 8.75T = 8.75 coils.
  • 1.6D = 1.6mm wire diameter.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Front: 8.75 (blue).
  • Rear: 10.5 (blue).

  Adjustment Options:

  • Softer springs: lighter tension; great on rear for offroad; gives more traction; best for small bumps.
  • Stiffer springs: heavier tension; creates less traction; lifts higher off jumps; better suspension response.

  Online	Name
  	#81222 Front Springs V2, green, 4.9 lb/in, L70, 9.5T, 1.6D
  	#81223 Front Springs V2, white, 5.1 lb/in, L70, 9.25T, 1.6D
  	#81224 Front Springs V2, gray, 5.3 lb/in, L70, 9.0T, 1.6D
  	#81225 Front Springs, V2, blue, 5.5 lb/in, L70, 8.75T, 1.6D
  	#81226 Front Springs V2, yellow, 5.7 lb/in, L70, 8.5T, 1.6D
  	#81229 Rear Springs V2, white, 4.1 lb/in, L86, 11.0T, 1.6D
  	#81230 Rear Springs V2, gray, 4.2 lb/in, L86, 10.75T, 1.6D
  	#81231 Rear Springs, V2, blue, 4.3 lb/in, L86, 10.5T, 1.6D
  	#81232 Rear Springs V2, yellow, 4.4 lb/in, L86, 10.25T, 1.6D

• Droop
  
  
  Each arm has a droop screw which goes up through the arm and its head rests against the chassis under the arm. (The droop screw in the arm is shown in photo 2.) Droop screw settings put limits on the suspension arm travel range; decreasing droop shortens travel. Turn the droop screws clockwise (tightening the screw) to shorten the droop and counter-clockwise (loosening) to lengthen it and achieve the options noted below.
  
  Warning: Full droop is when the screw head is flush against the arm -- NEVER bring it to that position. NEVER remove the screw.
  
  Set droop by measuring the overall length of the shock (from standoff to shock pin) while the chassis is elevated above your working surface, with the shock resting at its natural length (see photo 1).

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Front: 104mm.
  • Rear: 120mm.

  Options, Front Droop:

  • Increasing front droop (so the arms hang lower): loosening screws; will increase off-throttle steering; front end lifts more, giving more rear grip and less front grip on power.
  • Decreasing front droop: tightening screws; yields more on-power steering and quicker response at the expense of some stability in bumpy sections; less off-throttle steering.

  Options, Rear Droop:

  • Increasing rear droop: loosening droop screws; increases off-throttle steering; increases traction in bumpy sections; reduces high-speed stability.
  • Decreasing rear droop: tightening droop screws; increases stability in high-speed sections; reduces stability in bumpy sections.
• Shock Cap (unfinished)
  
  Team Associated includes the bleeder style shock cap in the RC8B3.1.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Bleeder

  Adjustment Options:

  Team Associated highly recommends the bleeder style shock cap. It makes setting the rebound much easier. For more about rebound, see the Shock Rebound setting.

  Online	Name
  	#81179 Bleeder Shock Caps, 16mm
  	#81184 Bleeder Shock Cap Seals, 16 mm

• Free Length, Rebound (unfinished)

  Rebound

  
  Rebound is the distance the shock shaft extends out of the shock body (without the spring installed). To set the rebound, add fluid to the shock, add the bleeder cap without its screw, push the shaft to the length you want (some fluid will bleed out of the cap hole), then insert the bleeder screw. The shaft should stay in place at that rebound distance.
  
  0 rebound means the shaft is fully compressed. Only the spring will extend the shaft. In this case, the fluid does 100% of the damping and the spring does 100% of the rebound.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 0.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Rebound could be measured in 25% increments: 0, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%. Or in 10mm increments.
  • The shorter the rebound, the ??
  • The longer the rebound, the ??

  Free Length

  The free length is the distance from the shock cap eyelet to the shock rod end eyelet centerlines. It is measured when the shock has been assembled except for the spring, and not mounted on the vehicle. If rebound has been set, the shaft is forced to its maximum extension to make the measurement.
  

Differential Fluid

• Differential Fluid

  Viscosity

  Differential fluids, like shock fluids, come in a variety of viscosities. The weight is measured in Centistokes, abbreviated cSt.
  • Lower viscosity = thinner fluid, in a lower cSt weight.
  • Higher viscosity = thicker fluid, in a higher cSt weight.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • Front: 5000cSt.
  • Center: 5000cSt.
  • Rear: 3000cSt.

  Options, front:

  • Lower viscosity: more steering, but less stability; for low-traction conditions.
  • Higher viscosity: less steering, but more stability on power; for high-traction conditions.

  Options, center:

  • Lower viscosity: smoother acceleration, better in bumps;for rough, low-traction conditions.
  • Higher viscosity: accelerates harder, but worse in bumps; for smooth, high-traction conditions.

  Options, rear:

  • Lower viscosity: more grip, but less stability on power; for low-traction conditions.
  • Higher viscosity: less grip, but more stability on power; for high-traction conditions.
  

  In-depth explanation (quotes from the RC8.2 manual):

  
  "When using thinner diff fluids, the vehicle can transfer power from either front or back more easily." The center diff influences how the vehicle accelerates and can set the feel of rear traction. The engine exerts power on the center diff, then the center on the front and rear diffs. If the front diff has thicker fluid than the rear, then the front will respond more quickly. Same with the reverse: thicker fluid in the rear will engage the rear first.
  
  As the center diff is tuned with thicker fluids, it will transfer power to front and back more smoothly. It begins to act more like a spool, meaning that the diff is locked or close to locked; it will tend to turn the left and right outdrives at the same rotational rate. In that case, it will improve straight-line acceleration.
  
  With thinner fluid, there is more diff action: the left and right outdrives are allowed to slip independently, like the slipper action of a clutch.
  
  "Therefore, when accelerating, you transfer power to the front due to the weight transfer to the back." When the vehicle starts to accelerate, the chassis squats towards the rear; this force of acceleration causes the "weight transfer" and the rear of the car to drop. This lightens the front end, and the front wheels will spin up a bit faster because of the lighter pressure.
  
  "As a result, the rear end will usually be more stable and less likely to step out." The rear end of the car "steps out" when it moves to the left or right under acceleration.
  
  "Some racers will try thicker oil (7,000-10,000cSt) when greater acceleration is needed. This is typically done on very smooth tracks, since thicker fluid can reduce handling in bumpy conditions." That's because bumpy conditions need more diff action, which is created with thinner fluids.

  Online	Name (in order of viscosity)
  	#5450 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 1,000 cSt
  	#5451 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 2,000 cSt
  	#5452 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 3,000 cSt
  	#5444 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 4,000 cSt
  	#5453 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 5,000 cSt
  	#5446 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 6,000 cSt
  	#5454 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 7,000 cSt
  	#5455 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 10,000 cSt
  	#5447 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 15,000 cSt
  	#5456 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 20,000 cSt
  	#5457 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 30,000 cSt
  	#5458 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 60,000 cSt
  	#5459 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 100,000 cSt
  	#5461 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 200,000 cSt
  	#5463 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 500,000 cSt
  	#5448 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 80,000 cSt
  	#5465 FT Silicone Diff Fluid, 1,000,000 cSt

Clutch and Gearing

• Clutch Bell
  
  The clutch bell on the engine transfers power to the spur gear, which turns the gears in the center diff to spin the center universals and transfer power to front and rear. The ratio between your clutch bell teeth and spur gear teeth (its "gearing") will affect how fast your vehicle goes ("top end" being the fastest it can go) and the rate at which your vehicle accelerates. If you don't have a lot of straights, then acceleration will be more important than top speed, so you gear it accordingly.
  
  Like a see-saw effect, changing the top end will adjust the acceleration in the opposite direction. (Higher top end will result in slower acceleration.) You can adjust your top end and accleration by changing your clutch bell to one with a different number of teeth.
  
  We recommend that you clean the bell thoroughly to remove manufacturer oil the first time you install it, and every time you make adjustments in the bell, such as changing clutch shoes or clutch springs.

  Standard Kit Setting:

  • 13 tooth bell.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Fewer bell teeth: less top end; more acceleration.
  • More bell teeth: more top end; less acceleration.
  

  Gearing Formula

  
  The larger the Final Drive Ratio (FDR) number, the faster the acceleration. The lower the number, the more top end it will have. We get the FDR by following two formulas, first one being:
  Spur Gear ÷ Clutch Bell = Gear Ratio.
  
  Next, we need to incorporate the Final Drive Ratio. That requires getting the transmission ratio from the RC company. The transmission ratio for the RC8B3 series is 3.38:1. This means that the diff pinion turns 3.38 times for every revolution of the ring gear.
  Gear Ratio × 3.38 = Final Drive Ratio.
  
  Using spur of 46 and clutch bell of 13:
  46 ÷ 13 = 3.538 Gear Ratio
  3.538 × 3.38 = 11.96 Final Drive Ratio (more acceleration).
  
  Using spur of 47 and clutch bell of 14:
  47 ÷ 14 = 3.357 Gear Ratio
  3.357 × 3.38 = 11.35 Final Drive Ratio (more top end).

  Online	Name
  	#81374 Clutch Bell, 13T, vented, 4-shoe
  	#81396 Clutch Bell, 14T, vented, 4-shoe

• Clutch Shoes
  
  When the engine revs increase, the clutch shoes, attached to the engine shaft within the clutch bell, are flung outward by centrifugal force. The shoes engage the inside of the clutch bell to turn the bell and accelerate the car.

  Standard setting (see drawing):

  • 0.95mm spring on aluminum shoes (blue lines).
  • 0.90mm spring on composite shoes (red lines).

  Adjustment Options:

  
  • The different clutch shoe materials available create a variety of inner slipper effects. This is a subjective area and needs personal experimentation for highly experienced racers to feel the difference. We recommend using clutch springs to tune the car. See the entry for Clutch Springs.

  Online	Name
  	#81375 Clutch Shoes, hard, 4-shoe, aluminum
  	#81377 Clutch Shoes, composite, hard, 4-shoe (machined)
  	#81402 Clutch Shoes, composite, 4-shoe

• Clutch Springs
  
  When the engine revs increase, the clutch shoes, attached to the flywheel and encased by the clutch bell, are flung outward by centrifugal force. The shoes engage the inside of the clutch bell to turn the bell and accelerate the car. The clutch springs' tension (initially holding the shoes against the flywheel) moderates the rate at which the shoes engage.

  Standard setting (see drawing):

  • 0.95mm spring on aluminum shoes.
  • 0.90mm spring on composite shoes.

  Adjustment Options:

  • Softer springs: softer spring rate; thinner spring; engages the clutch earlier in the engine RPM range; can cause the engine to "bog" if the load is too great for the low RPM.
  • Stiffer springs: stiffer spring rate; thicker spring; engages the clutch later in the engine RPM range; makes the power delivery more abrupt and can cause wheel spin (low traction).

  Online	Name
  	#81364 Clutch Springs, 0.85 mm, 4-shoe
  	#81365 Clutch Springs, 0.90 mm, 4-shoe
  	#81366 Clutch Springs, 0.95 mm, 4-shoe
  	#81367 Clutch Springs, 1.00 mm, 4-shoe
  	#81368 Clutch Springs, 1.05 mm, 4-shoe